Say what, a decent Mexican takeaway? In the middle of London’s arid burrito desert? That isn’t another Tortilla factory full of cheerless automatons churning out bland slop for a fiver-plus (guacamole 50p extra)? You’re joking, right? Fortunately not, and although it’s taken me a year to find it, Holborn now has a place worth checking out.
While Waterloo workers have Buen Provecho, Kings Cross denizens got Eat Street, and the Tottenham Court Road office bods have been enjoying Chipotle for some time, round these parts was always a bit of a Chilango fest. But thanks to Adobo that’s all changed.
I was turned onto this place by a commenter on my (somewhat dated) Mexi moan, a long rant about why there are no decent Mexican restaurants in London (something that hasn’t really changed; in fact, one of the best ones, Green And Red, closed). And it was a great tip.
Three tacos seems as good a way to judge a place as any, so it was one pork / carnitas, one beef / barbacoa, and one marinated chicken. Portions were generous, and while the meat was a shade dry that would be the only complaint. Corn salsa added pep, fresh salad spilled out onto the huge bowl they were delivered in, marinades got lips smacking all round, mature cheese tasted of cheese rather than PVC, and little nuggets of chewy chorizo were an inspired extra. They even do a meatball filling too.
In a city where most fast food dishes are constructed with all the care and attention of Francesco Schettino and the aesthetics of a Nuts spread, they were put together thoughtfully, with a smile and even a glint of passion, which goes a long way in this mean and impersonal town.