Well bugger me sideways and throw a looting chav in the canal if we haven’t finally found a street food stand worthy of La Revolución. Forget Pitt Cue Co, I’ve found* some more guys really worthy of the tag: Buen Provecho, of Lower Marsh Street and – for one afternoon only – the Red Lion & Sun in Highgate.
I’ve tried to sample their wares before, and turned up too late (under two hours after they opened) so last weekend hijacked a birthday gathering and insisted everyone meet at this pub, who are celebrating street food all summer, to get a proper go at their food.
Everything, and I mean everything, about this stall sums up what London street food should be about. Fast, friendly, relaxed, laughing in the face of profit margins, serving up a variety of meaty concoctions – from adobe con carne (perfectly pitched between smoky and spicy) to chicken with chorizo (tender and tough in harmony) to pork pibil cooked in orange (so good we surrended before it en masse) with a variety of salsas and boxfresh guacamole in hotplate toasted tacos for a couple of quid each. And no charge – read that, Chilango, Tortilla, Benito’s Hat: no charge – for the guac, which you could serve yourself. Tortilla chips were free too.
More of these please London – street stands run by skill and passion as opposed to hyperbole and profit.
Buen Provecho sets up camp on Lower Marsh Street (round the back of Waterloo station) from Monday to Friday from midday to when they run out (which is not long after midday).